The new Priekulė bypass enhances connectivity between Šilutė and Klaipėda, offering the historic town of Priekulė relief from heavy traffic. However, it also sharply divides the old road that once connected Dovilai, Kisiniai, Šernai, Rokai, Butkai, Voveriškiai, and Stragnai. In the early 20th century, this road served as a vital link between Priekulė and Klaipėda. The heart of the once-prosperous village of Voveriškiai was lined with oak trees, choosing them over the cheaper birch trees found elsewhere, because it was considered a more desirable place to live. Travelling from Dovilai towards Priekulė, you'll encounter numerous traditional Lithuanian homesteads. As you near Voveriškiai, these homes become even more striking, serving as a tribute to the golden age of books, an era when they were richly bound, gilded, and beautifully crafted, often written in a Gothic font – ornate and mesmerising but not always easy to read. For those eager to explore the diverse collection of books from the Klaipėda region – ranging from religious and secular writings to newspapers – two museums in the town of Priekulė offer a deeper insight: the Ieva Simonaitytė Memorial Museum and the Museum of Freedom Fights and Resistance.
Even today, the current owners of the old homesteads often discover forgotten newspapers in the attics, perusing their mouldy pages as they marvel at the vivid panorama of a rich and eventful past, where the preservation and promotion of Lithuanian identity stood out in bold colours. And how could it have been any other way? After all, Lithuanians in this region have long been accustomed to church services and school lessons in Lithuanian – not just in any Lithuanian, but in a clear and beautifully spoken version of the language. After all, books have been written in this beautiful language, ranging from the Bible to didactic lectures for those with a passion for precious wines. And if a German priest struggled with Lithuanian, the parishioners preferred to gather for home services in assembly halls. They even had dedicated rooms in the spacious huts for such occasions. As you travel along this road, you'll come across several old cemeteries, the final resting places of notable Lithuanian figures – booksellers, public personalities, writers, and activists from Lithuanian national organisations. In some places, unfortunately, the writings on the tombstones have vanished, and the graves themselves have disappeared. Will we take the time to restore these markers of memory and reflect on their significance? The past teaches us how to preserve the spirit of our nation, even in times of recurring hardship. Everything is survivable if you understand how it was and how it should be. This is exemplified by Ieva Simonaitytė’s work and all of her efforts – from secretarial work at Eglė to her efforts to defend heritage buildings during the Soviet era. It is also reflected in the Lithuanian nationalism of notable figures such as priests Endrikas Endrulaitis and Vilius Gaigalaitis, as well as farmers, politicians, and public figures like Martynas Reisgis, his brothers Mikas and Kristupas, and their descendants. Additionally, the influence of Endrijus Karalius in state affairs, the Lithuanian activities of the Hope Society, chronicled by Vilius Ašmys, and the bookstores of Priekulė further testify to this enduring spirit.
Let's take a moment to walk to the grave of Jurgis Stubra, the father of I. Simonaitytė, in the Žiaukai cemetery. Along the way, we pass a road that bears witness to the efforts to preserve the Lithuanian language and the Lithuanian nation – efforts that fuelled the desire for a united state and its eventual fulfilment. We'll stop at the Rokai School where Jonas Užpurvis, the future husband of Ilzė Stubraitė and prominent pedagogue, once taught and lived. From there, we'll visit the former farm of Kiliai (once owned by Jurgis Stubra), followed by the Rokai and Butkai cemeteries – a likely resting place of the participants of the 1831 uprising. And then, let's stop by the home of Vilius Ašmys, which has remained largely unchanged. The former homesteads of Martynas Klimkaitis and Pareigiai remain unchanged as well, though their fates have taken very different paths.
Following in the footsteps of Ėvė, we boldly cross the highway to Stragnai II and visit Birutė, the daughter of the renowned member of the Hope Society Endrius Karaliaus (the prototype for Vilius Karalius), in her beautiful and spacious house next to Stragnai Manor. Nearby, we find the remarkable graves of the last landlords, the Rudaičiai family, and their son-in-law, the hunting enthusiast Kurt Baltzer, who tragically passed in an accident after falling from his horse at an event honouring President Antanas Smetona.
How could you not pause to admire the house built by Martynas Reisgys in Griežiai? The same Martynas who refused to renounce his Lithuanian identity, lost his home, and tragically died of exhaustion in the Mauthausen Concentration Camp. His brothers Mikas and Kristupas also deserve recognition – their houses and graves are right here, on the way to Priekulė. Let's take a moment to sit in the very heart of the town, at Šventvakarių Ėvė, under the oak tree of Hope. This is no ordinary tree, just like the writer's summer house at Vingis. Let's browse through the books she wrote as well as the ones she treasured – from the Holy Scriptures to the most luxurious volumes of the encyclopaedia. Let’s take a stroll through Vingis Park, where the voices of the Hope Society still linger, and stop by the wooden sculpture of the Pressman. Let’s continue past the Balas and Bošardas Hall, where the Hope Society has gathered countless times, and move on past the house of the determined teacher Martynas Krukis. Nearby, we’ll find the home of Anė Reisgytė-Dugnienė. Let’s visit the Museum of Freedom Fights and Resistance, which is now home to the testimonies of exiles and Lithuanian partisans from this region – some even published in a separate book – and old prints, books, and the stories of the houses in the town of Priekulė. Continuing down the Klaipėda road, you’ll also find Dituva, where the brothers Gustav and Ludwig Kurschat, siblings of the renowned linguist Friedrich Kurschat, a professor in Königsberg, once taught. They assisted Friedrich in collecting linguistic material and folklore from the Lithuanian region and raised famous linguist Alexander Theodor Kurschat after his father Gustav sadly passed away at a young age.
The route features 25 sites. As you travel from one place to another, it’s fascinating to uncover the intertwined fates of the people from the Priekulė area in the Klaipėda Region. This includes both university professors and ordinary people from the countryside, whose shared destiny was shaped by the Lithuanian words, language, and books. As you visit famous sites, you may discover hidden artefacts you've never noticed before. You'll explore locations that aren't featured on typical tourist routes, offering a unique and off-the-beaten-path experience. The journey concludes at the cemetery of Vaškiai, one of the poorest villages in the Klaipėda Region, where no graves remain. Yet, it is the burial place of Jokūbas Pėteraitis, one of the wealthiest figures of Lithuania Minor in his time. He too played a significant role in strengthening Lithuanian identity in his own unique way. Bees buzz in the hives by the side of the cemetery, symbolising the ongoing pulse of Lithuanian life.
Perhaps a time will come when, with a deeper understanding and appreciation of our land's history, we will restore some of the old monuments or create new symbols that make history truly meaningful. Restored graves, commemorative plaques, memorial trees, and other markers of remembrance can enhance our understanding not only of our own country but also of the legacy of former great empires.
For details on the route, attractions, and more, click HERE.
This route was created by Daiva Beliokaitė,
Language Manager at the Klaipėda District Municipality Administration.
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