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Today's route leads you to Palanga, the vibrant Summer Capital of Lithuania. The Way of St. James winds through stunning pine forests, where you can inhale the refreshing, salt-kissed seaside air. To keep your journey exciting, be sure to take in the surroundings and enjoy the sights along the way.
To the north of the city centre, along Naglis Avenue, you'll spot the name Naglis Hill (Lith. Naglio kalnas) carved into a forked oak tree. Although it's only a 15-metre high dune, Naglis Hill can be considered one of the most mysterious spots in Palanga.
The origin of the name remains a mystery to this day. According to legend, this hill is the grave of Duke Naglis, buried by his sorrowful wife. Archaeologists have indeed uncovered the tomb of a man buried on the hill in the 15th or 16th century along with a bag full of amber. Historians believe that in the 15th century, there was a hillfort here, referenced in the chronicles of the Teutonic Knights. It is believed that an ancient Baltic shrine once stood on the hill, as traces of burning have been discovered in the older layers, while the later layers contain 16th-19th century graves, some with Curonian jewellery. During the interwar years, it became a beloved spot for romantic meetings, frequently captured in paintings, and affectionately referred to as the Seagull Hill. Today, the hill offers a serene setting for delightful strolls, where the soothing sounds of the sea and the rustling of pine trees fill the air. Beneath the soft white sands, the secrets of millennia remain hidden, waiting to be discovered.
Chances are, every Lithuanian, as well as their parents and grandparents, has a photo in their albums capturing a moment on the Palanga Pier. And while some holidaymakers say watching the sun set here has become a bit of a mundane ritual, it remains the perfect spot to feel the sea breeze and watch the waves clash, no matter the season.
The pier was constructed in the 19th century for practical reasons – the Counts Tyszkiewicz, who governed Palanga, built it as a harbour to transport locally made bricks and, during the summer, to bring holidaymakers back, primarily from Liepaja. A narrow horse-drawn railway was even established to transport both goods and visitors. However, even back then the summer visitors had grown fond of strolling along the railway on the pier.
Over the past century, it has been battered by storms on several occasions. Interestingly, the pier has notably shifted Palanga's coastline further towards the sea. Despite efforts to deepen the harbour, the sand ended up creating shoals. As a result, up to 100 metres of the original pier ended up on the shore and was dismantled.
At the dawn of independence, the resort's symbol was in a dire state of disrepair. As a result, in 1998, a new pier was constructed, stretching 470 metres, complete with benches for watching the sunset that never fails to captivate.
J. Basanavičiaus g. is the main path leading to the pier, the iconic symbol of the Palanga resort. In the past, rails ran parallel to the present-day J. Basanavičiaus g., extending all the way to the end of the pier. They were used to transport bricks from the Tyszkiewicz family brickyard to the ships. The street was uneven, sandy, and challenging to walk on. Holidaymakers could travel to the bridge in a horse-drawn carriage that rolled along rails. J. Basanavičiaus g., which had already become the resort's main pedestrian promenade back in the day, has maintained its status to this day. This is the primary avenue linking the Kurhaus and the pier. The Rąžė River winds to the right, with observation decks and recreational areas along its banks. J. Basanavičiaus g. still has charming, authentic villas that date back to the era of Counts Tyszkiewicz. Among the most beautiful are the Jūros Akis villa, the Fachwerk villa complex, and the Aldona villa.
Make sure to visit the charming late 19th-early 20th-century villa Jūros Akis (or the Eye of the Sea), which once belonged to Count Feliks Tyszkiewicz's mother, Zofia Horwatt-Tyszkiewicz. This villa is designed in a delightful Swiss style. The architectural design of the building sets it apart from other summer residences constructed by the counts in the resort during that period. During the interwar period, the villa served as a boarding house. Today, the building has been carefully restored, maintaining its original features. The villa now houses a restaurant and suites. This place has revived, if not created, many legends. One such intriguing detail is the naming of the rooms – With the Eyes of the Sea, The Count's, and The Mistress's, reflecting the fact that Count Tyszkiewicz's mistress once stayed here.
On the way back from Palanga pier or after a walk along Basanavičiaus g., it's customary to pause and linger by the fountain, or, more precisely, in the Jūratė and Kastytis Square One of the most stunning sculptures in Palanga – depicting the first meeting between the water goddess, Jūratė, and the fisherman, Kastytis – has been gracing the charming square between the town and the dunes for over fifty years. It was created by Nijolė Gaigalaitė, a young sculptor at the time, and it was this very sculpture that brought her widespread fame. The sculpture takes on a particularly romantic allure against the backdrop of the fountain’s splash or at midday, when the silhouettes of the two lovers are reflected in the water.
Every Lithuanian is familiar with the legend of the love between Jūratė and Kastytis, which provoked the fury of Perkūnas, the mighty lord of all gods. So great was his wrath that Jūratė's amber palace, lying beneath the waters, was shattered into countless little pieces, which continue to wash up on the shore to this day. Meanwhile, Kastytis met his tragic end, struck down by Perkūnas's thunderbolts. Jūratė's tears also made the water salty. Even primary school children are familiar with this version of the story, Maironis wrote poems about it, and creators of children's animations brought it to life in films. However, a version of the legend from the Palanga area tells an even more dramatic tale: Jūratė's body was left lying beside the ruins of her amber palace, while Kastytis was forever bound to the ocean's depths, condemned to gaze at her for eternity.
The earthly history of the sculpture is equally fascinating. It is said that Jūratė is inspired by the image of a sculptor's classmate, while Kastytis required two male models – one a professional, and the other a strong, very handsome lifeguard from Palanga. The artist herself wished for her sculpture to "possess a powerful human energy that inspires us to live and create."
In this square, you can pause and reflect on what happens when two contrasting elements meet in nature or in life – how much it can inspire and how much it can become a destructive force.
The route then leads you along Meilės Avenue (or Love Avenue) – a serene, peaceful path that stretches from J. Basanavičius g. and Jūratė and Kastytis Square, all the way to the foot of Birutė Hill, winding alongside the dunes. In the Palanga city plan created by the Tyszkiewicz family in Polish before World War I, the path was named Aleja Miłośników Pola (The Avenue for the Lovers of Palanga). Who were these lovers of Palanga?
The Tyszkiewicz family, the landlords of Western Lithuania who initiated the campaign, made a political statement: Palanga shall become the leading Lithuanian-Polish resort and rival the Prussian resort of Sopot. A society known as the Lovers of Palanga was established. This public organisation funded the publication of advertising brochures in Polish and Russian and commissioned a booklet about Palanga and Kretinga, written by Dr. Stanisław Karwowski (Poląga i Kretynga, Poznań, 1913). The Lovers of Palanga established a meteorological station, spearheaded the transformation of the middle school into a high school, and were in the process of setting up the Palanga Region Museum. On the initiative and with the support of this organisation, the first known city plan was created (Avenue for the Lovers of Palanga is marked on the plan), and a copy of the plan is kept in the city library. Knowledge about the Society and its activities is limited, but it is known that it continued to exist until World War I and did not resume its operations after the war. Latvia, which took control of Palanga in 1918, made no geographical changes, and the street names remained in Polish and Russian. After reclaiming the resort, a Lithuanian city plan was created in 1922, the streets were given Lithuanian names, and the Alley for the Lovers of Palanga was renamed Laisvės Avenue (or the Liberty Avenue).
After the flight and death of S. Darius and S. Girėnas, the Avenue was renamed in honour of the legendary pilots. This name was preserved in the new master plan created after the 1939 fire, under the guidance of architect Vadim Lvov. During the Soviet era, around 1948, the authorities decided that the pilots were no longer deserving of the street being named after them and renamed the alley Peace Alley. Upon regaining independence, the street was officially renamed Love Avenue, with the belief that it was being restored to its original, true name.
Another must-see along the way is Birutė Hill, located just 150 metres from the sea. The hill offers a breathtaking view of the Baltic Sea. The romantic tales of Palanga, linked to the tradition of the pagan temple, Vidmantas's daughter Birutė, and Lithuanian Grand Duke Kęstutis, date back to the 14th century. It is said that at the foot of Birutė Hill, where both the castle and the shrine once stood, there was already a settlement in the 13th and 18th centuries, which developed into a fishing village. The hill, being the largest dune near Palanga, is linked to the grave of Birutė. It later became a sacred pagan site, complete with a paleo-astronomical observatory. The observatory was made up of a semicircle of eleven wooden pillars, which enabled the observation of the celestial lights.
The first signs of Christianity in Palanga are also connected to this site. The first church, funded by Anna Jagiellonka, was built on Birutė Hill much later, around 1595. In 1869, atop Birutė Hill, on the site of a wooden chapel, became home to a neo-Gothic-style Chapel of St. George.
According to another legend, there was once an altar at this site, with its sacred fire guarded by the priestess Birutė, long before her marriage to the ruler of Trakai and Samogitia. To make people forget their heathen rituals after the Christianisation of Lithuania, a wooden Chapel of St. George was built on this site in 1505. However, it eventually decayed as a larger church was built in the town. A wooden cross was erected in its place, yet the locals continued to visit the hill, hoping that the goddess Birutė would intercede from above, even though paganism had long since passed.
Finally, in 1869, the current neo-Gothic chapel was built according to the design of architect K. Meyer, under the guidance of Pastor Konstantinas Steponavičius. Later, the hill was planted with trees, and a staircase was constructed to make it easier to access. In 1976, the chapel was adorned with seven stained-glass windows featuring legend motifs, created by the artist Liudas Pocius. During the interwar period, a commemorative plaque was placed on the wall of the chapel to mark Lithuania reclaiming Palanga. From 1918 to 1921, Palanga was part of Latvia, along with the Courland Governorate, which had been subjugated by Tsarist Russia.
The Amber Museum is an integral part of Palanga. This unique museum houses one of the largest collections of amber inclusions, natural amber lumps, and amber jewellery in the world, featuring a total of 30,000 amber exhibits! Here, you can learn everything about amber, from its origins to its processing, uses, and healing properties. The museum will take you on a fascinating journey through time! Amber, often referred to as the Baltic gold, is undoubtedly a one-of-a-kind treasure of nature. The primary colour of Baltic amber is pale yellow, ranging from very light yellows to brownish or even reddish tones – there are approximately 100 shades of yellow. Simply looking at this magnificent work of nature brings an extraordinary sense of discovery, along with a deep feeling of aesthetic admiration and wonder. The museum boasts one of the largest collections of amber inclusions in the world. Millions of years ago, as resin flowed from trees to the ground, it trapped various impurities (which give amber its colour), tiny insects, and other fragments of life. This is how they have remained perfectly preserved to this day. The amber pieces on display at the Palanga Amber Museum range in weight from a few grams to several kilograms. The largest one is the Sun Stone. It weights 3,524 kg. It is one of the most remarkable amber specimens in the world, captivating for its impressive size and almost perfect round shape.
The museum offers a diverse range of educational and creative activities: Properties of Amber, Amber and Folk Medicine, Let's Get to Know Amber through the Senses (for visitors with visual impairments), My Jewellery - Amber in a Modern Way, and Amber from the Inside. During the educational activities, you will lift, smell, and float amber, experience its properties, and learn how to distinguish genuine amber from plastic or counterfeit versions. The interactive educational sessions not only share the story of amber using modern methods, but also provide participants with the opportunity to create their own personalised amber amulet.
Not only are the collections exceptional, but the building that houses the museum is equally remarkable. It is a stunning residential palace, commissioned by Count Feliks Tyszkiewicz and his wife Antonina Korzbok-Łącka, and built in 1897. The design was created by Franz Heinrich Schwechten, one of the most renowned architects of the Wilhelmine Historicism style. The palace building marks the beginning of the resort era and aristocratic leisure in Palanga.
If you venture slightly off the proposed route, be sure to visit the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Palanga, whose red brick silhouette gracefully dominates the resort's skyline.
This neo-Gothic church designed by Swedish architect Karl Eduard Strandmann was built between 1897 and 1907. The most graceful feature is the square tower on the main façade, crowned with a 24-metre spire and a German clock. The neo-Gothic marble altars, pulpit, and the balustrade at the high altar were imported from France in 1907. The two Baroque altars were relocated from the old wooden church. The niches for the saints' paintings were replaced with stained-glass windows created by S. G. Żeleński, commissioned in Krakow, Poland. The central altar features a 17th-century painting of the Virgin Mary.
The interior space is divided into three naves, all covered with cross arches. The neo-Gothic character of the church is further emphasised by the upward-reaching polyhedral pilasters and columns, with edges extended by pillar arches. Today, the church tower, standing at 21 metres, features an observation platform. Climb the tower to enjoy a stunning view of the city skyline and admire its impressive bells. The observation deck is equipped with two monocular telescopes.
As you leave Palanga, you’ll be welcomed back into the embrace of nature. Outstanding hiking trails will lead you through the serene coastal forests. When you enter the Seaside Regional Park, take a moment to rest by the tranquil Lake Plocis. Lake Plocis serves as a resting spot for migratory birds, and for the convenience of park visitors, a birdwatching hut has been built, allowing you to observe the birds even on rainy days. On a clear day, you can even catch a glimpse of the shimmering Baltic Sea on the horizon from the shores of Lake Plocis.
As you continue, the route will take you to Karklė, the only fishing village in Lithuania along the Baltic Sea that has maintained its ethnographic identity. A visit to the Seaside Regional Park Visitor Centre is a must. You can explore exhibits on amber fishing, local fishing traditions, cultural heritage, dune formation, and other fascinating topics. Interestingly, the centre hosts a service every fourth Sunday of the month at 2 pm, led by the charismatic parish priest Mindaugas of the Karklė Evangelical Lutheran Parish.
Karklė has a store (Karklininkų g. 2), open daily from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. during the summer. And if you're feeling tired and think you might not make it to Klaipėda, you can always spend the night in Karklė. Several charming establishments will warmly welcome you, provided you book your accommodation in advance.
And if you're not feeling tired yet, we recommend continuing your journey along the coast and through the scenic coastal forests. As you walk along the marked forest path, you'll reach one of the most popular seaside attractions in Lithuania – the Dutchman's Cap. This stunning natural heritage site was formed by a retreating glacier. The 24.4 metres-high cliff is the highest point on the Lithuanian seaside. The hill is thought to have earned its name due to its resemblance to a Dutch cap when seen from the sea. The Dutchman's Cap has long been a landmark for sailors and fishermen, as its towering pine and oak trees make it easily visible against the sandy plain. The cliff offers a stunning view of the sea, featuring steep shores and rugged, rocky beaches. It's the perfect spot for watching birds soaring over the sea.
Further along, approaching the Klaipėda district and city boundaries, you'll come across the Memel Nord Coastal Artillery Battery. It's a World War II-era defensive fortification along the Baltic Sea, constructed after the Klaipėda region was annexed by Germany. Two coastal artillery batteries were to be built. One battery was to be built in Smiltynė near Kopgalis, named Memel Sud (Klaipėda South), while the other, Memel Nord (Klaipėda North), was to be located outside Giruliai, in the village of Kukuliškiai. However, only one was completed – the one in Kukuliškiai.
It is the only fortification of its kind in Lithuania. Originally an anti-ship battery designed to protect the coast from sea invasions, it became unnecessary as the entire Baltic coast was soon under German control, leading to the relocation of the installations to Norway. The battery was soon converted into an anti-aircraft battery and remained in active use during the war. When you arrive at what was once the northernmost coastal artillery battery in all of Germany, you will have the opportunity to visit the museum exhibition. There, you can learn about the fascinating history of this unique military and cultural heritage site. However, if you wish to visit the exhibition, you need to book a visit in advance (+370 681 47842).
USEFUL LINKS:
- Palanga Tourism Information Centre www.visit-palanga.lt
- Klaipėda District Tourism Information Centre www.klaipedosrajonas.lt
- Seaside Regional Park www.pajuris.info
PILIGRIM ACCOMMODATION INFORMATION
Note: The table only lists the locations accommodating pilgrims.
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